![]() ![]() However, Maj-La Pizzelli, cofounder of ATP Atelier, explains that there are also environmental issues at the end of life for chrome-tanned leather. ![]() Obviously, with that, you need to make sure they’re being properly monitored and upheld but we do have quite a good set of regulations to protect environmental and worker health and you won’t necessarily have the same everywhere else,” Turner adds.ĪTP Atelier produces entirely in Italy to minimize the risk of contamination in their supply chain for the 15% of chrome-tanned leather that they still work with. “In Europe we have quite strict environmental regulation. The risk of such things happening varies greatly between tanneries and between countries which makes it a challenge for brands to ensure they’re working with responsible suppliers. If tanneries do not follow certain processes, there is also a risk of chromium VI developing, the deadliest form of chrome. This can have devastating consequences for soil erosion in the surrounding area and for people living around these water ways with symptoms ranging from irritation to the mouth, airways and eyes, skin reactions and digestive problems to kidney and liver damage, cancer and reproductive problems. If not managed correctly, chrome and other substances such as lead, arsenic and acids can get into the local water supply. ![]() “Chrome tanning took over because it was cheaper, it was quicker, it was more consistent,” explains Charlotte Turner, sustainable apparel and textiles specialist at Eco-Age. Analytical procedures using Liquid Chromatography with Inductively Coupled Plasma and Mass Spectrometry (LC-ICP-MS) are required in order to achieve this new, lower level of detection.Īll chromium-tanned leather items where the leather has the potential to come into contact with the skin should be tested for the presence of chromium VI to show compliance with the appropriate legal requirements and SATRA’s chemistry laboratory can help with this analysis.Chrome tanning was invented in 1858 and quickly became the most commonly used process, replacing vegetable tanning. However, the maximum extractable amount of chromium VI was reduced to 0.053mg/kg on 18 th November 2019. This category includes the types of materials commonly present in toys – for example textiles, plastics and leather. The chemical requirements in the European Toy Directive 2009/48/EC enacted in July 2013 specified the maximum extractable amount of chromium VI from toy materials as 0.2mg/kg in category III materials. EN ISO 17075 part 2 is SATRA’s recommended procedure, as dyed leather can interfere with the detection of chromium VI when testing is carried out to part 1. Part 1 uses ultraviolet/visible (UV/VIS) spectrophotometric detection technique, whereas part 2 uses high performance liquid chromatography with a diode array detector (HPLC-DAD). The methods available for the detection of chromium VI are EN ISO 17075 parts 1 and 2. ![]() This came into effect in August 2010 and explicitly mentions clothing, furniture and bags. In Germany, the presence of chromium VI is forbidden under the 18th amendment to the Regulation of the German Ordinance on Commodities (BGVO). LegislationĬhromium VI is restricted as part of the European REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 Annex XVII entry number 47, and is restricted to less than 3mg/kg in leather articles that come into contact with the skin. As chromium-tanned leather is naturally acidic, this reduces the likelihood of conversion to chromium VI in finished leather. Certain circumstances – such as high temperatures, exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, low humidity and strongly alkaline conditions – can encourage this oxidation from chromium III to chromium VI. It is also classed as mutagenic and toxic for reproduction.Ĭhromium VI can be present in small quantities as an impurity in tanning salts, or it can be formed when chromium III is oxidised to chromium VI. The World Health Organisation (WHO) and the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) have deemed chromium VI to be a carcinogen when inhaled. If present in leather, it is a health hazard. Chromium VI is more reactive than chromium III and is a known dermatological irritant. On rare occasions, some leather may contain significant levels of chromium in the chromium VI (hexavalent) oxidation state. Chromium III is stable, and is not known to pose any significant hazard to human health or the environment. In tanning salts for commercial leather, it is present in the chromium III (trivalent) oxidation state. Chromium is an element that can exist in a number of oxidation states (‘valencies’). Chromium is a transition metal, and its sulphate salt is widely used to tan leather. ![]()
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